Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Site Feed Problems for Subscribers
Technical difficulties: I may be inadvertently messing up your subscription this week, so please keep an eye on the main site if you stop receiving email updates. Feel free to contact me at reviewlady (at) yahoo (dot) com if you have problems.
Monday, November 2, 2009
A Farm Stay and Virginia Skyline
We spent part of Halloween weekend on Skyline Drive, in the Shenandoah National Park, finding numerous reasons to be grateful that Virginia is our new home.

Considering Mark's natural food loving mom and outdoor enthusiast dad were in town, and I have less than fifty pages left to read in Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma, we spent the night at a nearby farm with an on-site bed and breakfast.

Pollan's text is nothing like I had stereotyped from the cover. It has been an engaging, entertaining, motivating, eye-opening read. If you are looking for a book to read and you have even the slightest interest in food (which I am assuming is the case since you are reading this blog!), then go to your local library or favorite bookstore and pick up a copy as soon as you can.
Smithfield Farm Bed and Breakfast (not to be confused with the corporate "Smithfield" company) is located on property that has been in the family for 8 generations. It is home to Smith Meadows, a sustainable farm employing the same beyond organic methods discussed in a section of the book. This unique and memorable bed and breakfast deserves a post all its own (coming soon), but it was fitting to see free range animals up close and personal just before our first delivery from a local farm later this week.

We made our way down the drive and back towards Richmond on Sunday, twisting through small towns and briefly stopping at a Trappist monastery.

Once their flight landed, my mother-in-law called to say they have already discussed coming back to visit Smithfield Farm in the spring. It certainly sounds like a return trip may be in our future.

Considering Mark's natural food loving mom and outdoor enthusiast dad were in town, and I have less than fifty pages left to read in Michael Pollan's Omnivore's Dilemma, we spent the night at a nearby farm with an on-site bed and breakfast.

Pollan's text is nothing like I had stereotyped from the cover. It has been an engaging, entertaining, motivating, eye-opening read. If you are looking for a book to read and you have even the slightest interest in food (which I am assuming is the case since you are reading this blog!), then go to your local library or favorite bookstore and pick up a copy as soon as you can.
Smithfield Farm Bed and Breakfast (not to be confused with the corporate "Smithfield" company) is located on property that has been in the family for 8 generations. It is home to Smith Meadows, a sustainable farm employing the same beyond organic methods discussed in a section of the book. This unique and memorable bed and breakfast deserves a post all its own (coming soon), but it was fitting to see free range animals up close and personal just before our first delivery from a local farm later this week.

We made our way down the drive and back towards Richmond on Sunday, twisting through small towns and briefly stopping at a Trappist monastery.

Once their flight landed, my mother-in-law called to say they have already discussed coming back to visit Smithfield Farm in the spring. It certainly sounds like a return trip may be in our future.
Labels:
Berryville,
Farm,
Skyline Drive,
Sustainable,
Virginia
Thursday, October 29, 2009
Richmond Restaurant Week: Acacia
A quick post for anyone near Richmond during Restaurant Week (October 26 - November 1). Area restaurants are offering 3-course meals for $25.09, with a portion of the proceeds going to the Central Virginia Food Bank and Meals on Wheels Serving Central Virginia.
We went to Acacia tonight after reading about it online. What an enjoyable evening!
I called too late for reservations (they were full) and was relieved they have another option for last-minute diners. They have a communal table in the middle of the restaurant that is first-come/first-serve. For introverts out there, this wasn't as nerve wrecking as you might think. Everyone seemed to turn to those in their own party for conversation. It wasn't until our very last course that a conversation started with the couple across from us, which led to an enjoyable exchange as we learned more about the area and met two lovely people.
Every aspect of our experience at Acacia exceeded our expectations, which is saying a lot during a promotional week when an establishment is operating at peak capacity. The hostess who greeted us was warm and inviting, our waitress and servers were all helpful with recommendations, and service was far above par. Glasses stayed full, courses were served promptly, plates were cleared when finished, the bill was exchanged quickly. Flawless, really.
As for the food, we both started with the smoked beef brisket and bean empanada. Probably the least favorite of our courses. it was still satisfying. Since the beef was chopped into squares, we couldn't help but think of it as an upscale hot pocket. Next up, I had the baked crab cake with a herb garlic sauce, cheddar cheese grits, and creamed leeks and greens. Oh my, this was delicious. Everything on the plate went well together, and what's not to love about lump crab and smooth, creamy grits? Mark had the pan-seared skirt steak with potato gratin, a manly dish that he devoured. For dessert, he cleaned the plate containing parsnip spice cake, fromage blanc ice cream, and pear sauce. (I wasn't as impressed with my bite, but I am not much of a cake fan, so this shouldn't be held against the dish!) Mark isn't as descriptive with his food praise, but when the plate is clean and he makes a positive pronouncement about the meal, that is usually a very good sign. For my dessert, I indulged in the perfectly paired rich chocolate torte and passion fruit panna cotta. I have never met a panna cotta I liked, until now. I only ordered the dessert for the chocolate half, but found myself switching between bites because they were both equally appealing. Dark, rich chocolate contrasted with the tart and creamy panna cotta; it all left me looking forward to the next time we visit.
As an aside, the complimentary valet parking was a nice touch on a busy street. If you can get a reservation or want to try the communal table, I highly recommend a visit to Acacia.
We went to Acacia tonight after reading about it online. What an enjoyable evening!
I called too late for reservations (they were full) and was relieved they have another option for last-minute diners. They have a communal table in the middle of the restaurant that is first-come/first-serve. For introverts out there, this wasn't as nerve wrecking as you might think. Everyone seemed to turn to those in their own party for conversation. It wasn't until our very last course that a conversation started with the couple across from us, which led to an enjoyable exchange as we learned more about the area and met two lovely people.
Every aspect of our experience at Acacia exceeded our expectations, which is saying a lot during a promotional week when an establishment is operating at peak capacity. The hostess who greeted us was warm and inviting, our waitress and servers were all helpful with recommendations, and service was far above par. Glasses stayed full, courses were served promptly, plates were cleared when finished, the bill was exchanged quickly. Flawless, really.
As for the food, we both started with the smoked beef brisket and bean empanada. Probably the least favorite of our courses. it was still satisfying. Since the beef was chopped into squares, we couldn't help but think of it as an upscale hot pocket. Next up, I had the baked crab cake with a herb garlic sauce, cheddar cheese grits, and creamed leeks and greens. Oh my, this was delicious. Everything on the plate went well together, and what's not to love about lump crab and smooth, creamy grits? Mark had the pan-seared skirt steak with potato gratin, a manly dish that he devoured. For dessert, he cleaned the plate containing parsnip spice cake, fromage blanc ice cream, and pear sauce. (I wasn't as impressed with my bite, but I am not much of a cake fan, so this shouldn't be held against the dish!) Mark isn't as descriptive with his food praise, but when the plate is clean and he makes a positive pronouncement about the meal, that is usually a very good sign. For my dessert, I indulged in the perfectly paired rich chocolate torte and passion fruit panna cotta. I have never met a panna cotta I liked, until now. I only ordered the dessert for the chocolate half, but found myself switching between bites because they were both equally appealing. Dark, rich chocolate contrasted with the tart and creamy panna cotta; it all left me looking forward to the next time we visit.
As an aside, the complimentary valet parking was a nice touch on a busy street. If you can get a reservation or want to try the communal table, I highly recommend a visit to Acacia.
Labels:
Restaurant Week,
Restaurants,
Richmond,
Virginia
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
A Friend's Cooking Adventure
Need a good laugh? Our friend, Matt (pictured), is one of the funniest people we know. He recently relocated from Lexington to Nashville as he transitions from life as a practicing counselor to freelance editor/author. We keep waiting for his book to be finished, so it can be discovered by a big city publisher, and millions of you can laugh with us at his unique writing style and wit.The book isn't finished, but in the meantime he has an entertaining post up on his blog (click here for "Of Crock Pots and Cornbread"). It is a hilarious account of his recent kitchen disaster. Enjoy!
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Sweet and Tangy Oven-Barbecued Chicken with Individual Potato Gratins
We've made the following meal several times over the last month or two. While the chicken is in the oven, I usually put a batch of lima beans on the stove or assemble small salads to round out the meal. Enjoy!
Individual Potato Gratins
Source: Modified from a Food Network recipe
1 large russet potato, roughly peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 green onion, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 tablespoons heavy cream
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Lightly grease three ramekins with butter. Layer potato slices, cheese, and onions into each ramekin, repeating each layer until full. Season with salt and pepper and top each gratin with 1 or 2 tablespoons of heavy cream. Cover with foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes up to an hour, removing the foil halfway through cooking time.
If you are making the same time as the chicken, the recipes call for different temperatures. I started the potatoes in the oven for 20-30 minutes on 375 while I got the sauce and chicken going. Then I removed the foil and turned the oven down to 325 and inserted the chicken. If the potatoes are getting brown before the chicken is finished, just pull out the ramekins, cover loosely with foil and they should stay plenty warm until the chicken is ready.
Yield: 3 servings.
Sweet and Tangy Oven-Barbecued Chicken
Source: Cook's Illustrated
(posted with permission)
Cook's Illustrated Notes: Real maple syrup is preferable to imitation syrup, and "mild" or "original" molasses is preferable to darker, more bitter types. If you are content to use bottled barbecue sauce, we had the best luck with Bull's-Eye Original, winner of our taste-test. Use 1 cup of sauce and, in step 2, reduce the sauce cooking time from 4 minutes to 2 minutes.
My notes: I followed the recipe below almost exactly, only substituting canola oil for vegetable oil. I went a little lighter on the cayenne the second time. Beware of all the shuffling in and out of the oven with the potatoes and chicken. Even though I had on a mitt, I have a future scar up past where the mitt ended from a burn the first time I made it.
1/2 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
11/2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (6 to 8 ounces each), trimmed and patted dry with paper towels
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, about 5 inches from upper heating element; heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk ketchup, onion, Worcestershire, mustard, molasses, maple syrup, vinegar, chili powder, and cayenne in small bowl; set aside. Season chicken with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in heavy-bottomed, nonreactive, 10-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat until beginning to smoke. Brown chicken skinned-side down until very light golden, 1 to 2 minutes; using tongs, turn chicken and brown until very light golden on second side, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to plate and set aside.
Discard fat in skillet; off heat, add sauce mixture and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits on bottom of skillet. Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring frequently with heatproof spatula, until sauce is thick and glossy, and spatula leaves clear trail in sauce, about 1 to 3 minutes. Off heat, return chicken to skillet, and turn to coat thickly with sauce; set chicken pieces skinned-side up and spoon extra sauce over each piece to create thick coating.
Place skillet in oven and cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 130 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 8 to 12 minutes. Set oven to broil and continue to cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to platter and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk to combine sauce in skillet and transfer to small bowl. Serve chicken, passing extra sauce separately.
Yield: 2 to 3 servings, depending on the size of chicken breasts.
Individual Potato GratinsSource: Modified from a Food Network recipe
1 large russet potato, roughly peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 green onion, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 tablespoons heavy cream
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Lightly grease three ramekins with butter. Layer potato slices, cheese, and onions into each ramekin, repeating each layer until full. Season with salt and pepper and top each gratin with 1 or 2 tablespoons of heavy cream. Cover with foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes up to an hour, removing the foil halfway through cooking time.
If you are making the same time as the chicken, the recipes call for different temperatures. I started the potatoes in the oven for 20-30 minutes on 375 while I got the sauce and chicken going. Then I removed the foil and turned the oven down to 325 and inserted the chicken. If the potatoes are getting brown before the chicken is finished, just pull out the ramekins, cover loosely with foil and they should stay plenty warm until the chicken is ready.
Yield: 3 servings.
Sweet and Tangy Oven-Barbecued Chicken
Source: Cook's Illustrated
(posted with permission)
Cook's Illustrated Notes: Real maple syrup is preferable to imitation syrup, and "mild" or "original" molasses is preferable to darker, more bitter types. If you are content to use bottled barbecue sauce, we had the best luck with Bull's-Eye Original, winner of our taste-test. Use 1 cup of sauce and, in step 2, reduce the sauce cooking time from 4 minutes to 2 minutes.
My notes: I followed the recipe below almost exactly, only substituting canola oil for vegetable oil. I went a little lighter on the cayenne the second time. Beware of all the shuffling in and out of the oven with the potatoes and chicken. Even though I had on a mitt, I have a future scar up past where the mitt ended from a burn the first time I made it.
1/2 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
11/2 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (6 to 8 ounces each), trimmed and patted dry with paper towels
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, about 5 inches from upper heating element; heat oven to 325 degrees. Whisk ketchup, onion, Worcestershire, mustard, molasses, maple syrup, vinegar, chili powder, and cayenne in small bowl; set aside. Season chicken with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in heavy-bottomed, nonreactive, 10-inch ovenproof skillet over high heat until beginning to smoke. Brown chicken skinned-side down until very light golden, 1 to 2 minutes; using tongs, turn chicken and brown until very light golden on second side, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to plate and set aside.
Discard fat in skillet; off heat, add sauce mixture and, using a wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits on bottom of skillet. Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring frequently with heatproof spatula, until sauce is thick and glossy, and spatula leaves clear trail in sauce, about 1 to 3 minutes. Off heat, return chicken to skillet, and turn to coat thickly with sauce; set chicken pieces skinned-side up and spoon extra sauce over each piece to create thick coating.
Place skillet in oven and cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 130 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 8 to 12 minutes. Set oven to broil and continue to cook until thickest parts of chicken breasts register 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to platter and let rest 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk to combine sauce in skillet and transfer to small bowl. Serve chicken, passing extra sauce separately.
Yield: 2 to 3 servings, depending on the size of chicken breasts.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Cook's Illustrated Blueberry Scones
Until this evening, my baking attempts with blueberries have not been successful. Our most recent disaster was a blueberry coffee cake. I found the recipe on a blog, the picture looked fantastic, and the original source was a bed and breakfast - how bad could it be? Bad enough that Mark and I picked out all the blueberries and ate them before tossing the rest of the bland, sugary mess.
Considering that our fresh-picked blueberries are dwindling in the freezer, I decided to try one last blueberry recipe. This time I went to Cook's Illustrated for a tried and true recipe. Mark deemed these scones the third best thing I've ever baked. We devoured our warm, flaky pastries and had to use self control when the urge came for seconds and thirds. If you have frozen blueberries, add these scones to your list. They will not disappoint.

As of this morning, there is a free video on the America's Test Kitchen website that walks viewers through the recipe step-by-step. The only difference I noticed was that the video recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of salt and the printed CI recipe (that I used) calls for 1/2 teaspoon salt.
You can view the video here: http://www.americastestkitchen.com/cookstv/preview/default.asp?req=1&station=mainChannel&video=s8/blueberryscones
Don't let all the steps scare you, this recipe was easy to assemble and was not overly time consuming. It would have been even faster if not for one BIG mistake...
I moved quickly to knead, roll, and fold the dough as directed so that the ingredients didn't get too warm. I was in too big of a hurry, because when I opened the freezer door to place the dough inside for five minutes, I was greeted by this:

The shredded butter. The butter that was supposed to go in with the dry ingredients, before the wet ingredients, long before I was supposed to knead, roll, and fold the dough. Oops.
Take Two.

Thankfully, the second attempt went much better than the first.
The recipe states that you can refrigerate or freeze the leftover scones. We split them up in two batches to see which method reheats best. I'll update the post with the verdict, but in the meantime, go bake some scones.
Update: Definitely try both methods of storing to see which you prefer when reheated. I like the fluffy texture of the refrigerated scones, but they won't last as long stored this way. With the amount of time it takes for the frozen scones to reheat, the edges get crisper which changes the taste/texture of the scone. Both are delicious, just slightly different!
Blueberry Scones
Source: Cook's Illustrated, July 2007
(posted with permission)
It is important to work the dough as little as possible—work quickly and knead and fold the dough only the number of times called for. The butter should be frozen solid before grating. In hot or humid environments, chill the flour mixture and workbowls before use. While the recipe calls for 2 whole sticks of butter, only 10 tablespoons are actually used (see step 1). If fresh berries are unavailable, an equal amount of frozen berries (do not defrost) can be substituted. An equal amount of raspberries, blackberries, or strawberries can be used in place of the blueberries. Cut larger berries into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces before incorporating. Refrigerate or freeze leftover scones, wrapped in foil, in an airtight container. To serve, remove foil and place scones on a baking sheet in a 375-degree oven. Heat until warmed through and recrisped, 8 to 10 minutes if refrigerated, 16 to 20 minutes if frozen. See final step for information on making the scone dough in advance.
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), frozen whole (see note above)
1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries (about 7 1/2 ounces), picked over (see note above)
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup sour cream
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces), plus additional for work surface
1/2 cup sugar (3 1/2 ounces), plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling*
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Score and remove half of wrapper from each stick of frozen butter. Following photo at left, grate unwrapped ends on large holes of box grater (you should grate total of 8 tablespoons). Place grated butter in freezer until needed. Melt 2 tablespoons of remaining ungrated butter and set aside. Save remaining 6 tablespoons butter for another use. Place blueberries in freezer until needed.
2. Whisk together milk and sour cream in medium bowl; refrigerate until needed. Whisk flour, 1/2 cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and lemon zest in medium bowl. Add frozen butter to flour mixture and toss with fingers until thoroughly coated.
3. Add milk mixture to flour mixture; fold with spatula until just combined. With rubber spatula, transfer dough to liberally floured work surface. Dust surface of dough with flour; with floured hands, knead dough 6 to 8 times, until it just holds together in ragged ball, adding flour as needed to prevent sticking.
4. Roll dough into approximate 12-inch square. Following illustrations, fold dough into thirds like a business letter, using bench scraper or metal spatula to release dough if it sticks to countertop. Lift short ends of dough and fold into thirds again to form approximate 4-inch square. Transfer dough to plate lightly dusted with flour and chill in freezer 5 minutes.
5. Transfer dough to floured work surface and roll into approximate 12-inch square again. Sprinkle blueberries evenly over surface of dough, then press down so they are slightly embedded in dough. Using bench scraper or thin metal spatula, loosen dough from work surface. Roll dough, pressing to form tight log. Lay seam-side down and press log into 12 by 4-inch rectangle. Using sharp, floured knife, cut rectangle crosswise into 4 equal rectangles. Cut each rectangle diagonally to form 2 triangles and transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet.
6. Brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar. Bake until tops and bottoms are golden brown, 18 to 25 minutes. Transfer to wire rack and let cool 10 minutes before serving.
To Make Ahead: After placing the scones on the baking sheet, either refrigerate them overnight or freeze. When ready to bake, for refrigerated scones, heat oven to 425 degrees and follow directions in step 6. For frozen scones, heat oven to 375 degrees, follow directions in step 6, and extend cooking time to 25 to 30 minutes.
*I used one tablespoon of turbinado sugar for the last step instead of 1 tablespoon regular sugar.
Update: Do not make these on a humid or rainy day, even if using Cook's Illustrated recommendations for such an environment. It was either that or accidental over-kneading that caused my second batch to not be quite as flaky. And don't use too much lemon zest; I slightly overfilled the measuring spoon during the second batch and the taste was too pronounced. Thankfully, even though they didn't quite measure up to the original, they are still delicious!
Considering that our fresh-picked blueberries are dwindling in the freezer, I decided to try one last blueberry recipe. This time I went to Cook's Illustrated for a tried and true recipe. Mark deemed these scones the third best thing I've ever baked. We devoured our warm, flaky pastries and had to use self control when the urge came for seconds and thirds. If you have frozen blueberries, add these scones to your list. They will not disappoint.

As of this morning, there is a free video on the America's Test Kitchen website that walks viewers through the recipe step-by-step. The only difference I noticed was that the video recipe calls for 1 teaspoon of salt and the printed CI recipe (that I used) calls for 1/2 teaspoon salt.
You can view the video here: http://www.americastestkitchen.com/cookstv/preview/default.asp?req=1&station=mainChannel&video=s8/blueberryscones
Don't let all the steps scare you, this recipe was easy to assemble and was not overly time consuming. It would have been even faster if not for one BIG mistake...
I moved quickly to knead, roll, and fold the dough as directed so that the ingredients didn't get too warm. I was in too big of a hurry, because when I opened the freezer door to place the dough inside for five minutes, I was greeted by this:

The shredded butter. The butter that was supposed to go in with the dry ingredients, before the wet ingredients, long before I was supposed to knead, roll, and fold the dough. Oops.
Take Two.

Thankfully, the second attempt went much better than the first.
The recipe states that you can refrigerate or freeze the leftover scones. We split them up in two batches to see which method reheats best. I'll update the post with the verdict, but in the meantime, go bake some scones.
Update: Definitely try both methods of storing to see which you prefer when reheated. I like the fluffy texture of the refrigerated scones, but they won't last as long stored this way. With the amount of time it takes for the frozen scones to reheat, the edges get crisper which changes the taste/texture of the scone. Both are delicious, just slightly different!
Blueberry Scones
Source: Cook's Illustrated, July 2007
(posted with permission)
It is important to work the dough as little as possible—work quickly and knead and fold the dough only the number of times called for. The butter should be frozen solid before grating. In hot or humid environments, chill the flour mixture and workbowls before use. While the recipe calls for 2 whole sticks of butter, only 10 tablespoons are actually used (see step 1). If fresh berries are unavailable, an equal amount of frozen berries (do not defrost) can be substituted. An equal amount of raspberries, blackberries, or strawberries can be used in place of the blueberries. Cut larger berries into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces before incorporating. Refrigerate or freeze leftover scones, wrapped in foil, in an airtight container. To serve, remove foil and place scones on a baking sheet in a 375-degree oven. Heat until warmed through and recrisped, 8 to 10 minutes if refrigerated, 16 to 20 minutes if frozen. See final step for information on making the scone dough in advance.
16 tablespoons unsalted butter (2 sticks), frozen whole (see note above)
1 1/2 cups fresh blueberries (about 7 1/2 ounces), picked over (see note above)
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup sour cream
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (10 ounces), plus additional for work surface
1/2 cup sugar (3 1/2 ounces), plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling*
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Score and remove half of wrapper from each stick of frozen butter. Following photo at left, grate unwrapped ends on large holes of box grater (you should grate total of 8 tablespoons). Place grated butter in freezer until needed. Melt 2 tablespoons of remaining ungrated butter and set aside. Save remaining 6 tablespoons butter for another use. Place blueberries in freezer until needed.
2. Whisk together milk and sour cream in medium bowl; refrigerate until needed. Whisk flour, 1/2 cup sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and lemon zest in medium bowl. Add frozen butter to flour mixture and toss with fingers until thoroughly coated.
3. Add milk mixture to flour mixture; fold with spatula until just combined. With rubber spatula, transfer dough to liberally floured work surface. Dust surface of dough with flour; with floured hands, knead dough 6 to 8 times, until it just holds together in ragged ball, adding flour as needed to prevent sticking.
4. Roll dough into approximate 12-inch square. Following illustrations, fold dough into thirds like a business letter, using bench scraper or metal spatula to release dough if it sticks to countertop. Lift short ends of dough and fold into thirds again to form approximate 4-inch square. Transfer dough to plate lightly dusted with flour and chill in freezer 5 minutes.
5. Transfer dough to floured work surface and roll into approximate 12-inch square again. Sprinkle blueberries evenly over surface of dough, then press down so they are slightly embedded in dough. Using bench scraper or thin metal spatula, loosen dough from work surface. Roll dough, pressing to form tight log. Lay seam-side down and press log into 12 by 4-inch rectangle. Using sharp, floured knife, cut rectangle crosswise into 4 equal rectangles. Cut each rectangle diagonally to form 2 triangles and transfer to parchment-lined baking sheet.
6. Brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon sugar. Bake until tops and bottoms are golden brown, 18 to 25 minutes. Transfer to wire rack and let cool 10 minutes before serving.
To Make Ahead: After placing the scones on the baking sheet, either refrigerate them overnight or freeze. When ready to bake, for refrigerated scones, heat oven to 425 degrees and follow directions in step 6. For frozen scones, heat oven to 375 degrees, follow directions in step 6, and extend cooking time to 25 to 30 minutes.
*I used one tablespoon of turbinado sugar for the last step instead of 1 tablespoon regular sugar.
Update: Do not make these on a humid or rainy day, even if using Cook's Illustrated recommendations for such an environment. It was either that or accidental over-kneading that caused my second batch to not be quite as flaky. And don't use too much lemon zest; I slightly overfilled the measuring spoon during the second batch and the taste was too pronounced. Thankfully, even though they didn't quite measure up to the original, they are still delicious!
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Marsha Burton's Caramel French Toast
The main reason I have been an absent blogger is that our days are growing shorter. By the time I get dinner on the table, the sun is long gone and decent food pictures without daylight have not happened. I plan on buying a cheap light that may help, but in the meantime, I have a few posts in the pipeline from earlier this summer.
Up first: Caramel French Toast

I first mentioned the Inn at Woodhaven last summer. The original post was written after a belated birthday getaway to Louisville, "...Marsha, the innkeeper, chaired the Bed and Breakfast Association of Kentucky cookbook committee, and did an outstanding job pulling the book together. When I go, I usually indulge in the caramel French toast, organic berries and scrambled cage-free eggs. Each room has its own style, but my personal favorites are the Attic Suite, Carriage House, and Hearth Room. I have never visited another bed and breakfast with a bathroom the size of the Attic Suite - it features two sinks and lots of space! Her place is centrally located in the St. Matthews area of Louisville."
Fast forward one year and I decided to make the French toast for two occasions this summer. Marsha is an excellent chef in the kitchen, she utilizes local organic ingredients whenever possible. I needed to make a breakfast dish for a group function and I knew I could count on one of her recipes. Sure enough, the result was met with high praise from guests and I received multiple requests for the recipe from my husband's coworkers. Not only is the dish easy to assemble, but it is a make-ahead recipe which saves a lot of time in the morning.
In the version below, the only change I made to the original is that I made a little extra caramel sauce to drizzle over top since I was transporting the dish and didn't want it to get too dry on the way. We don't normally use processed corn products like Karo (I have Food, Inc. and the words of Joel Salatin at UVA in my head), but if you want a tried and true recipe, make it as written. Don't let your brain calculate the calories or ingredients and enjoy!
Caramel French Toast
Source: Marsha Burton, Inn at Woodhaven, www.innatwoodhaven.com
1 loaf Great Harvest Farmhouse white bread (I used Hearty White from Montana Bread Company in Richmond since we do not have a Great Harvest bakery)
2 1/4 sticks butter
2 1/4 cups light brown sugar
9 tablespoons light Karo syrup
9 jumbo eggs
2 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons vanilla
Cinnamon
Fresh berries
Melt butter, brown sugar and Karo syrup in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir often while bringing the mixture to a boil, then remove from heat. Pour 2/3 of the caramel mixture into the bottom of a buttered 9x13 casserole dish. Pour the remaining caramel mixture into a glass container and store in the refrigerator to be used just before serving.
Layer slices of bread over the caramel mixture, using three slices together to make one inch depth. Whisk the eggs, milk and vanilla together in a medium bowl until well combined. Pour the mixture evenly over the bread. Gently lift each slice to make sure that the milk mixture has coated all of the bread. Sprinkle generously with cinnamon and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
Uncover and bake in a 350 degree oven for 45-60 minutes or until slightly puffy and set. When you remove it from the oven, it will still be quite puffy but this will subside in a few minutes. Reheat the reserved caramel mixture from the refrigerator and drizzle warm caramel over top. Serve with a garnish of fresh berries.
*(In case you are wondering, the mini-egg casserole that you see pictured with the French toast was made using a Virginia bed and breakfast recipe. I guess I have been spoiled by Marsha's scrambled eggs, because these mini egg dishes were a disappointing side dish. I'll spare you the mini-egg casserole recipe since it isn't worth making.)
Up first: Caramel French Toast

I first mentioned the Inn at Woodhaven last summer. The original post was written after a belated birthday getaway to Louisville, "...Marsha, the innkeeper, chaired the Bed and Breakfast Association of Kentucky cookbook committee, and did an outstanding job pulling the book together. When I go, I usually indulge in the caramel French toast, organic berries and scrambled cage-free eggs. Each room has its own style, but my personal favorites are the Attic Suite, Carriage House, and Hearth Room. I have never visited another bed and breakfast with a bathroom the size of the Attic Suite - it features two sinks and lots of space! Her place is centrally located in the St. Matthews area of Louisville."
Fast forward one year and I decided to make the French toast for two occasions this summer. Marsha is an excellent chef in the kitchen, she utilizes local organic ingredients whenever possible. I needed to make a breakfast dish for a group function and I knew I could count on one of her recipes. Sure enough, the result was met with high praise from guests and I received multiple requests for the recipe from my husband's coworkers. Not only is the dish easy to assemble, but it is a make-ahead recipe which saves a lot of time in the morning.
In the version below, the only change I made to the original is that I made a little extra caramel sauce to drizzle over top since I was transporting the dish and didn't want it to get too dry on the way. We don't normally use processed corn products like Karo (I have Food, Inc. and the words of Joel Salatin at UVA in my head), but if you want a tried and true recipe, make it as written. Don't let your brain calculate the calories or ingredients and enjoy!
Caramel French Toast
Source: Marsha Burton, Inn at Woodhaven, www.innatwoodhaven.com
1 loaf Great Harvest Farmhouse white bread (I used Hearty White from Montana Bread Company in Richmond since we do not have a Great Harvest bakery)
2 1/4 sticks butter
2 1/4 cups light brown sugar
9 tablespoons light Karo syrup
9 jumbo eggs
2 1/2 cups whole milk
2 tablespoons vanilla
Cinnamon
Fresh berries
Melt butter, brown sugar and Karo syrup in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir often while bringing the mixture to a boil, then remove from heat. Pour 2/3 of the caramel mixture into the bottom of a buttered 9x13 casserole dish. Pour the remaining caramel mixture into a glass container and store in the refrigerator to be used just before serving.
Layer slices of bread over the caramel mixture, using three slices together to make one inch depth. Whisk the eggs, milk and vanilla together in a medium bowl until well combined. Pour the mixture evenly over the bread. Gently lift each slice to make sure that the milk mixture has coated all of the bread. Sprinkle generously with cinnamon and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
Uncover and bake in a 350 degree oven for 45-60 minutes or until slightly puffy and set. When you remove it from the oven, it will still be quite puffy but this will subside in a few minutes. Reheat the reserved caramel mixture from the refrigerator and drizzle warm caramel over top. Serve with a garnish of fresh berries.
*(In case you are wondering, the mini-egg casserole that you see pictured with the French toast was made using a Virginia bed and breakfast recipe. I guess I have been spoiled by Marsha's scrambled eggs, because these mini egg dishes were a disappointing side dish. I'll spare you the mini-egg casserole recipe since it isn't worth making.)
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Recipe Update
I've updated our original September recipe plan to redirect lackluster recipe links. Even though they received favorable reviews elsewhere, for us they missed the mark.

Hamburgers with Classic Burger Sauce and Three-Bean Baked Beans
The classic burger sauce was fine, but not worth the extra effort. You may want to give the beans a try since they are a favorite dish among CL message board members. I splurge on occasion, but the final outcome didn't justify the sugar and calorie count for me.
Asian Beef Kebabs
The only Cook's Illustrated recipe I have ever made that fell short. The marinade tasted too salty. One highlight that night was the grilled pineapple (sans marinade) on the kebabs.
Chicken Sopa
One of the worst recipes I have made in a long time. It was terrible. I rarely use condensed soup, but make exceptions now and then for recommended recipes. This recipe was a soupy and bland mess. It made so much I couldn't bring myself to throw out the leftovers. Instead I picked out the chicken and made lunch nachos for three days. Do not make this dish.

A brief rundown:
Hamburgers with Classic Burger Sauce and Three-Bean Baked Beans
The classic burger sauce was fine, but not worth the extra effort. You may want to give the beans a try since they are a favorite dish among CL message board members. I splurge on occasion, but the final outcome didn't justify the sugar and calorie count for me.
Asian Beef Kebabs
The only Cook's Illustrated recipe I have ever made that fell short. The marinade tasted too salty. One highlight that night was the grilled pineapple (sans marinade) on the kebabs.
Chicken Sopa
One of the worst recipes I have made in a long time. It was terrible. I rarely use condensed soup, but make exceptions now and then for recommended recipes. This recipe was a soupy and bland mess. It made so much I couldn't bring myself to throw out the leftovers. Instead I picked out the chicken and made lunch nachos for three days. Do not make this dish.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Fresh Corn Chowder
We have reached the halfway point this month in our efforts to cook at home. The good news is we are on budget for the month (yahoo!), which confirms that eating out was the culprit in previous months. The bad news is that we have more recipe disappointments than recommendations with one notable exception.
My sincere thanks to the geniuses at Cook's Illustrated who helped lighten my Saturday with their Fresh Corn Chowder. It was the kind of hectic night that needed a tried and true, scrape-the-bowl-clean recipe.

That evening I decided to prep everything for the soup before starting the recipe. I normally prepare each item before it goes in, but I have been trying to become more efficient in the kitchen and thought prep work might help. I chopped, diced, poured, and measured everything first. At this point I realized the thyme I bought had "lemon" written in under the label. And it was accompanied by a citrus scent. Not good. I googled lemon thyme, realized it does make a difference, sent hubby to Kroger, and resumed prep work.
Things were taking longer with the new prep-before-you-cook step, but eventually everything was ready except the corn. I called Mark into the kitchen to help me shuck the corn and things went terribly awry. Out of 12 ears, only two were salvageable. The rest were host to companions that I won't mention because we are talking about food and I'd hate for you to lose your appetite. Everything was already out, prepped and ready to go so we didn't want to waste the other ingredients.
It took three grocery store trips to find fresh corn but I was able to find five ears and went on my way to finish a half batch of what I started. We ate around 10:00pm, but the result was worth the wait. I highly recommend this recipe if you can get your hands on some fresh corn without all the trips. Other than making a half batch, I followed the recipe as written but may add blue crab the next time. I found the salt pork (Niman Ranch) in with the pre-packaged meats for around $1.80 and used two ears of bicolor and three ears of sweet white corn. Enjoy!
Fresh Corn Chowder
Source: Cook's Illustrated, September 2000
(posted with permission)
Be sure to use salt pork, not fatback, for the chowder. Streaks of lean meat distinguish salt pork from fatback; fatback is pure fat. We prefer Spanish onions for their sweet, mild flavor, but all-purpose yellow onions will work fine too.
10 ears corn (medium), husks and silks removed
3 ounces salt pork, trimmed of rind and cut into two 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 large onion, preferably Spanish, chopped fine
2 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 teaspoons)
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 medium red potatoes (about 12 ounces), scrubbed and cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves (or 1/4 teaspoon dried)
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
Ground black pepper
Stand corn on end. Using chef's knife, cut kernels from 4 ears corn (you should have about 3 cups); transfer to medium bowl and set aside. Grate kernels from remaining 6 ears on large holes of box grater, then firmly scrape any pulp remaining on cobs with back of knife (you should have 2 generous cups kernels and pulp).
Sauté salt pork in Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, turning with tongs and pressing down on pieces to render fat, until cubes are crisp and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, stir in butter and onions, cover pot, and cook until softened, about 12 minutes. Remove salt pork and reserve. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add stock.
Add potatoes, bay leaf, thyme, milk, grated corn and pulp, and reserved salt pork; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add reserved corn kernels and heavy cream and return to simmer; simmer until corn kernels are tender yet still slightly crunchy, about 5 minutes longer. Discard bay leaf and salt pork. Stir in parsley, salt, and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Makes about 2 quarts, serving 6.
My sincere thanks to the geniuses at Cook's Illustrated who helped lighten my Saturday with their Fresh Corn Chowder. It was the kind of hectic night that needed a tried and true, scrape-the-bowl-clean recipe.

That evening I decided to prep everything for the soup before starting the recipe. I normally prepare each item before it goes in, but I have been trying to become more efficient in the kitchen and thought prep work might help. I chopped, diced, poured, and measured everything first. At this point I realized the thyme I bought had "lemon" written in under the label. And it was accompanied by a citrus scent. Not good. I googled lemon thyme, realized it does make a difference, sent hubby to Kroger, and resumed prep work.
Things were taking longer with the new prep-before-you-cook step, but eventually everything was ready except the corn. I called Mark into the kitchen to help me shuck the corn and things went terribly awry. Out of 12 ears, only two were salvageable. The rest were host to companions that I won't mention because we are talking about food and I'd hate for you to lose your appetite. Everything was already out, prepped and ready to go so we didn't want to waste the other ingredients.
It took three grocery store trips to find fresh corn but I was able to find five ears and went on my way to finish a half batch of what I started. We ate around 10:00pm, but the result was worth the wait. I highly recommend this recipe if you can get your hands on some fresh corn without all the trips. Other than making a half batch, I followed the recipe as written but may add blue crab the next time. I found the salt pork (Niman Ranch) in with the pre-packaged meats for around $1.80 and used two ears of bicolor and three ears of sweet white corn. Enjoy!
Fresh Corn Chowder
Source: Cook's Illustrated, September 2000
(posted with permission)
Be sure to use salt pork, not fatback, for the chowder. Streaks of lean meat distinguish salt pork from fatback; fatback is pure fat. We prefer Spanish onions for their sweet, mild flavor, but all-purpose yellow onions will work fine too.
10 ears corn (medium), husks and silks removed
3 ounces salt pork, trimmed of rind and cut into two 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 large onion, preferably Spanish, chopped fine
2 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 2 teaspoons)
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
3 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 medium red potatoes (about 12 ounces), scrubbed and cut into 1/4-inch cubes (about 2 cups)
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves (or 1/4 teaspoon dried)
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
Ground black pepper
Stand corn on end. Using chef's knife, cut kernels from 4 ears corn (you should have about 3 cups); transfer to medium bowl and set aside. Grate kernels from remaining 6 ears on large holes of box grater, then firmly scrape any pulp remaining on cobs with back of knife (you should have 2 generous cups kernels and pulp).
Sauté salt pork in Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, turning with tongs and pressing down on pieces to render fat, until cubes are crisp and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to low, stir in butter and onions, cover pot, and cook until softened, about 12 minutes. Remove salt pork and reserve. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, gradually add stock.
Add potatoes, bay leaf, thyme, milk, grated corn and pulp, and reserved salt pork; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add reserved corn kernels and heavy cream and return to simmer; simmer until corn kernels are tender yet still slightly crunchy, about 5 minutes longer. Discard bay leaf and salt pork. Stir in parsley, salt, and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Makes about 2 quarts, serving 6.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Dog-eared Pages of a Food Magazine May Lessen Homesickness
When reading magazines, I often dog-ear pages to note or keep for the future.
I have never dog-eared this many pages in one magazine.

The Move
I haven't shared much about the big move because we are still finding our way. The best news is that Mark absolutely loves his job. For me, there are good days and bad days. But if I have learned anything from previous moves, it is that the good ones will outnumber the bad ones. Eventually.
In the meantime, last Wednesday was a bad day. My parents and their best friends had left, so the house was markedly quiet and I decided to get away from working in front of the computer screen. I'm sure it was just a fluke and the people here are lovely (I've met them on good days), but on this particular day the only people on my route happened to be displeased with life. Everywhere I went - the mall, grocery store, farmer's market, and a small cafe - the majority of associates I interacted with seemed disinterested in doing their job and, in some cases, downright rude. Strangers walking through doors being held open would walk straight through without a smile, nod, or word. And if I happened to be trailing someone while walking into a store, I needed to be prepared for a face full of glass because holding the door open was not a two-way deal on Wednesday. Paired with my longstanding inability to find my way around in a new city, let's just say it wasn't my ideal day.
Fast forward to Thursday.
The Magazine
On Thursday I opened the magazine I picked up at the cafe. Flavor is a regional, bimonthly publication published by Melissa Harris and edited by Jennifer Conrad Seidel. Together they lead a team that has created a remarkable periodical. According to their localharvest.org listing, "Flavor Magazine is focused on the celebration of the local, seasonal, authentic foods and culinary traditions that are truly unique to this area of Virginia. Each issue presents fascinating portraits of the small family farmers, ranchers, and poultry farmers, food artisans, chefs, wine makers and brew masters who are passionate about their craft."
The quality, photographs, and layout trump regional magazines in my former state and even rival national publications. The articles are well written and informative (which helped me to lose track of time on exercise equipment - always a plus), and the majority of advertisements tie into the subject matter by featuring restaurants, farms, and other places of interest. I am not alone in my enjoyment of this magazine. According to the August/September issue, their initial goal was to print 100,000 copies annually. As they embark on their second year, they are now printing over 250,000 copies/year. The publication is free if picked up at area businesses or readers can purchase a subscription for home delivery.
Finding this resource and learning about gardening, sustainable farmers, small business owners, and culinary traditions in our area made me (gulp) look forward to becoming a Virginian.
Even on Wednesdays.
Flavor Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Sperryville, Virginia 22740
(540) 987-9299
www.flavormags.com
I have never dog-eared this many pages in one magazine.

The Move
I haven't shared much about the big move because we are still finding our way. The best news is that Mark absolutely loves his job. For me, there are good days and bad days. But if I have learned anything from previous moves, it is that the good ones will outnumber the bad ones. Eventually.
In the meantime, last Wednesday was a bad day. My parents and their best friends had left, so the house was markedly quiet and I decided to get away from working in front of the computer screen. I'm sure it was just a fluke and the people here are lovely (I've met them on good days), but on this particular day the only people on my route happened to be displeased with life. Everywhere I went - the mall, grocery store, farmer's market, and a small cafe - the majority of associates I interacted with seemed disinterested in doing their job and, in some cases, downright rude. Strangers walking through doors being held open would walk straight through without a smile, nod, or word. And if I happened to be trailing someone while walking into a store, I needed to be prepared for a face full of glass because holding the door open was not a two-way deal on Wednesday. Paired with my longstanding inability to find my way around in a new city, let's just say it wasn't my ideal day.
Fast forward to Thursday.
The Magazine
On Thursday I opened the magazine I picked up at the cafe. Flavor is a regional, bimonthly publication published by Melissa Harris and edited by Jennifer Conrad Seidel. Together they lead a team that has created a remarkable periodical. According to their localharvest.org listing, "Flavor Magazine is focused on the celebration of the local, seasonal, authentic foods and culinary traditions that are truly unique to this area of Virginia. Each issue presents fascinating portraits of the small family farmers, ranchers, and poultry farmers, food artisans, chefs, wine makers and brew masters who are passionate about their craft."
The quality, photographs, and layout trump regional magazines in my former state and even rival national publications. The articles are well written and informative (which helped me to lose track of time on exercise equipment - always a plus), and the majority of advertisements tie into the subject matter by featuring restaurants, farms, and other places of interest. I am not alone in my enjoyment of this magazine. According to the August/September issue, their initial goal was to print 100,000 copies annually. As they embark on their second year, they are now printing over 250,000 copies/year. The publication is free if picked up at area businesses or readers can purchase a subscription for home delivery.
Finding this resource and learning about gardening, sustainable farmers, small business owners, and culinary traditions in our area made me (gulp) look forward to becoming a Virginian.
Even on Wednesdays.
Flavor Magazine
P.O. Box 100
Sperryville, Virginia 22740
(540) 987-9299
www.flavormags.com
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